Sunday, November 18, 2007

Lardo




I borrowed my friend Greg's beer brewing pot. It's big. Big enough for my current projects, which include rendering lard, brining a turkey and making some serious broth.

Today's adventure? Caul fat. Shimmery, lacy, globule-speckled caul fat.

I bought 15 pounds of it from my favorite pork man a couple of weeks back. My plan was to render it into lard... but for what uses? Apart from seasoning my cast iron pan, I had no idea. It just sounded like fun.

Initially, I thought I should have been more specific and asked for leaf lard, the soft fat similar to what you find in your bacon. Supposedly, that's top quality pastry lard. Despite not eating pastry, that's what I wanted.

Caul fat is much more famous for its place around meats. At the farmer's market, it makes an appearance around Viande Meats' pates. It's the crispy membrane around a crepinette (the new thing-to-do in NYC restaurants, so I hear); it's what holds stuffed roasts together, and what imparts moisture to thick, free range cuts. On the lard scale, it's bottom of the line.

Nevertheless, I had 15 pounds of it and an original plan.... so I cut that lacy membrane into pieces and filled Greg's pot.




I'd read as much as I could google about rendering lard. Of course, most website contradicted all the other website--and none of them wanted to talk about rendering caul. So, I put the pot on the stove and let it do its thang--whatever that was going to be.



Appetizing, huh? I really ought to have taken a picture of the final product--it looked nothing like this. In time, in patience, in heat, this sticky lump melted into a viscous oil and crispy membrane bits. I strained the clear stuff into jars, and mixed what remained with sauteed onions to eat on slices of apple. Yum.

The lard is pristine white, as solid as butter 'cause I keep it in the fridge, but a joy to cook with. I try not to smoke it (I think what I REALLY really wanted was beef suet. Maybe another time?) so I'm not really sauteeing things... but it makes a mean breakfast egg.

And, it did one heck of a job seasoning my cast iron.

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